“The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk”

Front-Row Ticketing

Tickets are on sale now and include general museum admission.

Individual tickets may be purchased on-site at the DMA, by phone at 214.922.1803, or online, DallasMuseumofArt.org (from $16 adults weekdays; $20 adults weekends; special rates for seniors, groups, military and students; children under 12 free).

For group tickets (10 or more, $15 per person), please call 214.922.1222 or e-mail groupsales@DallasMuseumofArt.org.


Dateline: Jean Paul Gaultier

Catherine D. Anspon previews the Dallas Museum of Art%26rsquo;s big, bold blockbuster whose siren call beckons fashion followers and art seekers to enter the wild and brilliant kingdom of designer Jean Paul Gaultier.

Gaga for Gaultier

His art and life have always been way, way beyond the rules %26mdash;%26nbsp;more than breaking them %26mdash; utterly transcending them to create a novel, idiosyncratic and fearlessly original language that makes the old fashion seem like something from a distant planet. For 35 years, this %26ldquo;enfant terrible,%26rdquo; who is first and foremost terribly brilliant, has inspired, transgressed and provoked the fashion establishment. Now he plunges into the art firmament, taking on a brave new world with a much-buzzed-about internationally touring exhibition conceived, produced and organized by the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, led by Director and Chief Curator Nathalie Bondil, while the MMFA%26rsquo;s Thierry-Maxime Loriot does curatorial honors, with the Dallas Museum of Art%26rsquo;s Kevin W. Tucker, The Margot B. Perot Curator of Decorative Arts and Design, acting as coordinating curator for the DMA presentation.

Dallas will be the first American destination (and one of only two U.S. cities) for the fierce traveling extravaganza of fashion interwoven with a new kind of glamour %26mdash; global, inclusive, gender-defying, streetwise and futuristic at the same time %26mdash; that proposes a provocative new world order, as it dresses and undresses the stars and demi-stars of fashion, film, music and dance to spill over into the cultural consciousness. From the cone corset for Madonna, which reinforced her outre identity, to Catherine Deneuve%26rsquo;s smokingly demure trench coat, Gaultier has kept us all enthralled with a narrative of sexuality and romance woven into his haute couture and ready-to-wear collections, while remaining light years ahead of mere fashion designers. Even Lady Gaga, who sat down for a televised t%26ecirc;te-%26agrave;-t%26ecirc;te with the designer this September, can%26rsquo;t get enough of Gaultier.

Top Notes

Gaultier%26rsquo;s prolific, multiple decades of inventiveness is choreographed into six sections. Approximately 130 ensembles will be on view, spanning 1976 to 2011, from couture collections to his pr%26ecirc;t-%26agrave;-porter line, along with their accompanying accessories, most never before exhibited. His art unfolds via sketches, stage costumes and excerpts from runway shows, concerts, dance performances, films and televised interviews to provide a portrait of the talent and his creations, which are synonymous with the avant-garde, edged in the unexpected, often infused in humor.

%26ldquo;Punk Cancan%26rdquo; %26mdash; From the pavements of Paris including its rough, street-smart Pigalle neighborhood to the rock attitude of London%26rsquo;s Trafalgar Square, Gaultier distills then subverts the stereotypes of these two cultured capitals. The outrageous encounters the elegant, leather and latex cavort with lace and fishnets, and the result is a delicious brew of Parisienne-ness and punk attitude.

"The Boudoir" %26mdash; Need we say more? The designer who as a child put a cone bra on his teddy bear Nana later and most memorably segued into saucy corsets and waist cinchers. Early sketches from the 1960s reveal Gaultier%26rsquo;s longstanding fascination with lingerie as outerwear, which also stemmed from early impressions formed with his paternal grandmother, a beauty consultant and hypnotist, and an infatuation with the film Falbalas (1945), set in a French fashion house in which the leading lady, actress Micheline Presle, dons costumes designed by Rochas. Also check out Madonna%26rsquo;s coned Gaultier corsetry from her Blond Ambition (1990) and Confessions (2008) tours and a 1983 corset dress, the first one Gaultier ever created.

"Skin Deep"%26nbsp; %26mdash; Showcasing Gaultier%26rsquo;s take on clothing as a second skin%26nbsp; %26mdash; from the illusion of nudity %26agrave; la Almod%26oacute;var films to %26ldquo;tattoo%26rdquo; costumes for contemporary choreographer R%26eacute;gine Chopinot %26mdash; this section also presents his defiant statement, the male skirt.

"Metropolis"%26nbsp; %26mdash; It%26rsquo;s always been about the future %26mdash;%26nbsp;sci-fi, new technology, unexpected materials (from vinyl to neoprene plus inflatables) %26mdash; as well as crossing over to film, dance, and pop and rock music with unforgettable artistic collaborations, all mined by Gaultier to conjure magic viahis sorcerer%26rsquo;s soul.

"Urban Jungle"%26nbsp; %26mdash; Sampling and/or translating multi-culturalism to the catwalk long before the term %26ldquo;globalism%26rdquo; was coined, Gaultier is exposed as a champion of ethnic diversity and the richness of the cities of the 21st century. The Arabs of Paris%26rsquo; Barb%26egrave;s neighborhood, hip rabbis, Flamenco dancers morphed from Chinese women, Russian icons, African masks and Bollywood maharajahs all percolate and populate the rich fashion stew of Gaultier%26rsquo;s ever-changing world order. Leather, python, crocodile and feathers also glide across the runway here.%26nbsp;

%26ldquo;The Odyssey of Jean Paul Gaultier%26rdquo;%26nbsp; %26mdash; The sailor motif, mermaids and virgins star in this section. Watch for Gaultier%26rsquo;s first-ever dress, which makes a never-before-seen cameo, while this section%26rsquo;s setting evokes the look of his couture salon.%26nbsp;

%26ldquo;Jean Paul Gaultier%26rsquo;s unflinchingly bold designs resonate with his affection for cultural variety and vitality. He has effectively combined couture, art and popular culture into his own distinctive aesthetic, which is at once personal and yet reflective of the world around us.%26rdquo; %26mdash; Kevin W. Tucker, The Margot B. PerotCurator of Decorative Arts and Design at the Dallas Museum of Art and coordinating curator of the Dallas presentation

%26ldquo;I wanted to create an exhibition on Jean Paul Gaultier more than any other couturier because of his great humanity.%26rdquo; %26mdash; Nathalie Bondil, Director and Chief Curator, Montreal Museum of Fine Arts

Your Go-To Guide to%26nbsp; The Fashion World%26nbsp; of Jean Paul Gaultier:%26nbsp; From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk%26nbsp;%26nbsp;%26nbsp;%26nbsp;%26nbsp;

Decoding Gaultier %26mdash; A Primer on 10 Ways He Transformed Fashion Forever

1. Let%26rsquo;s set sail. He did more for the humble blue-and-white horizontal stripe; every designer that followed is merely quoting the cheeky nautical vibe of Gaultier.

2. Celebrity as muse. No other designer before or since has collaborated with so many sublime talents, across cross-disciplines %26mdash; including a bit of cross-dressing. The list is impressive and endless, as alluded to in the must-have exhibition catalog: from the music realm (most famously Madonna, as well as Kylie Minogue and French performers Yvette Horner and Myl%26egrave;ne Farmer) to film (Pedro Almod%26oacute;var, Peter Greenaway, Luc Besson, Marc Caro and Jeanā€Pierre Jeunet) and contemporary dance (Maurice B%26eacute;jart, R%26eacute;gine Chopinot and Angelin Preljocaj).

3. Gender-bending. Androgyny, anyone? From his introduction of the man skirt from the And God Created Man collection in 1985 to relentless infusions of the trench and camouflage wear including an opulent camouflage ball gown, Gaultier%26rsquo;s always questioned %26mdash; and transgressed %26mdash;%26nbsp;the prescribed gender roles.

4. Wild invention. From a Les Surr%26eacute;alistes collection (haute couture, fall/winter 2006 %26ndash; 2007) starring a coatdress with rooster-ornamented sleeve that would be at home in The Menil Collection%26rsquo;s surrealist galleries to the beguiling blossom-adorned Belles des Champs collection (Countryside Babes, Women%26rsquo;s pr%26ecirc;t-%26agrave;-porter, spring/summer 2006) to the %26ldquo;Calligraphie%26rdquo; dress (haute couture, fall/winter 2008 %26ndash; 2009) reminiscent of a late-period de Kooning canvas, Gaultier has been like a sponge, soaking up inspiration amidst sidewalks, studios and concert halls.

5. Boundary-bursting. Art, music, fashion, film, dance, sci-fi, real life %26mdash; all are theaters for potential Gaultier inspiration and sources of sampling.

6. Dancing to the tune of diversity. From populating the runway with plus-size models to placing non-Nordic, non-WASPs on the catwalk, Gaultier%26rsquo;s world mirrors the world we all inhabit, throwing a big, big party where inclusivity is the calling card.

7. Stepping off the runway to the furniture store, beauty
bar and now %26mdash; museum. From perfume packaged in a tin can with now-iconic, alluring sculpted figural bottles to home-furnishing collections (from 1992 to the present collaboration for Roche Bobois), Gaultier%26rsquo;s view of fashion has been multitudinous. Now with this exhibition, he triumphantly takes on the art world.

8. Democratic rule. From designing a bottle for Evian (2008) to creating a capsule collection for Target, the high-low vibe of Gaultier rules.

9. Time traveler. Moving across time and space, Gaultier%26rsquo;s oeuvre encompasses futuristic fantasies as well as those of the past, quoting World War II-era pinups, the 1960s Jane Fonda film Barbarella, the cult of Frida Kahlo and more.

10. Gone global. Ultimately Gaultier%26rsquo;s contribution is towards a global definition and understanding of fashion and art. From the Riviera to the Hussars, African masks to turbaned Orientalism, Tibetan mandalas to the cult of the Virgin of Guadalupe, every continent and culture is ripe for the designer%26rsquo;s intervention.


Illustrious Lensmen

Exhibition-goers are also rewarded by encounters with images by masterful artists who cross-pollinate the fashion and art firmaments, ranging from Cindy Sherman to Mario Testino, Andy Warhol, Pierre et Gilles, Steven Meisel and Richard Avedon %26mdash; including many never-before-seen prints.%26nbsp;


Amazing Mannequins, Compelling Mise-en-Sc%26egrave;ne
Actual talking heads %26mdash; 30 animated, show-stopping mannequins, including one of Gaultier himself %26mdash; hold court throughout the galleries, providing an added bit of high-tech wizardry wondrously produced, designed and staged by Montreal-based Denis Marleau and St%26eacute;phanie Jasmin of UBU theater company. Museum visitors will also
be entranced by other state-of-the-art audio-visual happenings %26mdash; sound, video, concert clips, television excerpts and runway footage, all melding to make their exhibition experience exciting, memorable and thrillingly avant-garde.


Opening This Month %26mdash; A New American Painter: Mark Bradford

Appropriately enough, the stage for Gaultier is paved by an extraordinary opening act: the national touring exhibition Mark Bradford, which unfurls October 16, 2011, through January 15, 2012, in the soaring DMA Barrel Vault and surrounding Hanley, Lamont, Rachofsky and Stoffel Galleries. While Gaultier drew inspiration from the sidewalks of Paris and London, American painter Mark Bradford also mines his own turf: the Leimert neighborhood of South Central Los Angeles where he was raised and got his start, working as a hairdresser at his mother%26rsquo;s salon before enrolling in CalArts in 1991. Inclusion in the 2006 Whitney Biennial and a 2009 MacArthur %26ldquo;genius%26rdquo; grant followed in recognition of Bradford%26rsquo;s forging of a new way of painting, specifically his creation of large-scale canvases whose surfaces bear a skin of impastoed paint loaded with a dense layer of collage materials, often taken from found objects, including sources literally from the streets (signage, construction boards), as well as permanent-wave end papers from the beauty biz, carbon paper, newsprint and other vernacular odds and end. Bradford is perhaps most famous, though, for his interaction in the neighborhood of the Ninth Ward, New Orleans: Tapped for the 2008 public art endeavor %26ldquo;Prospect 1%26rdquo; in NOLA, he conceived the ambitious Mithra, a 70-foot-long ark-like sculpture installed amidst the hurricane ravaged community.

This first major survey of Bradford%26rsquo;s opus is organized by the Wexner Center for the Arts, The Ohio State University, Columbus, curated by the Wexner%26rsquo;s Christopher Bedford, in collaboration with the artist. The exhibition%26rsquo;s Dallas presentation is coordinated by the DMA%26rsquo;s Hoffman Family Senior Curator of Contemporary Art, Jeffrey Grove. The touring showcase for the best of contemporary painting is freighted with a topical message about race, culture, class and gender in American society. It also presents new offerings by Bradford, including a suite of paintings and a quartet of recent graphite drawings. In other new works, the artist pushes beyond the canvas: an environmental installation with sound, Pinocchio Is on Fire; a significant newsculpture, Detail, taking as its departure elements from Mithra; and the film Across Canal, which probes the making and impact of Mithra for the Crescent City.

Mark Bradford is presented in Dallas by Texas Instruments Foundation. Additional support is provided by TWO x TWO for AIDS and Art, the Contemporary Art Initiative and the Donor Circle membership program. Air transportation is provided by American Airlines.%26nbsp;%26nbsp;%26nbsp;%26nbsp;%26nbsp;


Mark Bradford in his studio, fall 2009. Photo Fredrik Nilsen.

Mark Bradford%26rsquo;s Strawberry, 2002. Photo Collection of Barbara and Bruce Berger, %26copy; Mark Bradford.


"The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk"

Shop Gaultier

Visit the DMA Museum Store for chic exclusives that capture the genius of Gaultier. Canvas tote bags, offered in two styles, offer an ode to Gaultier%26rsquo;s nautical striping, while a Gaultier-designed tee emblazoned with tabloid headlines is a must for a day taking in the sights of the Dallas Art Fair, all at democratic prices (totes $35 to $135, members $31.50 to $121.50; limited-edition tee $65, members $58.50).

Collectible Catalog

Talk about heavy lifting. The accompanying exhibition catalog, published by the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts and edited by exhibition curator Thierry-Maxime Loriot, in French and English editions, boasts 424 pages brimming with 550 sumptuous illustrations and photographs; more than 50 exclusive behind-the-scenes interviews with insiders/culturati including Madonna, Pedro Almod%26oacute;var, Tom Ford, Pierre Cardin, Catherine Deneuve, Helen Mirren, Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, and Dita Von Teese, as well as many previously unpublished images (thanks to the collaborations of fashion photographers and the Maison Jean Paul Gaultier); and the definitive timeline of Gaultier%26rsquo;s life and career. All in all, the artfully curated volume %26mdash; the first-ever monograph on Gaultier %26mdash; serves up a lavish romp through 35 years of one of the most inventive and influential designers on the planet. Also weighing in about the incomparable Gaultier are Suzy Menkes, fashion editor at The New York Times and the International Herald Tribune, and Valerie Steele, fashion historian and director of New York%26rsquo;s The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology. (The Montreal Museum of Fine Arts in association with Abrams, $125; members $112.50.)

Members See Gaultier Free!

DMA members do not have to pre-purchase or reserve tickets in advance.%26nbsp;Members will be fast-tracked into the exhibition in the VIP/Member line.%26nbsp;Not a member? Join now and see Gaultier for free! Memberships, from $75 annually, include enticing perks. Why wait for Gaultier to open? Call 214.922.1247 or e-mail membership@DallasMuseumofArt.org today.

Well-Connected Host Committee

The Host Committee for Jean Paul Gaultier is the official group from the DMA that will welcome the designer on his first visit to Dallas. Membership in the group includes an invitation to a private reception with the designer on Tuesday, November 8,as well as recognition on the printed invitations for the special events associated with the exhibition and invitations to those gatherings. For information about joining the Gaultier Host Committee, please contact the Museum at 214.922.1242.


The Official Calendar:

Gaultier Hits Dallas

Tuesday evening, November 8: Welcome reception for Gaultier with members of the Host Committee (by invitation only) on what will be his first visit to Dallas.

Wednesday day, November 9: Luncheon at the DMA with the designer. Limited to just 250 people, this day includes a sneak peek at the exhibition. (Tickets required; contact the DMA for more information.)

Wednesday evening, November 9: Donor Circle opening reception (by invitation only). Upper-level supporters of the Museum preview the exhibition while clinking cocktails with the designer.

Friday evening, November 11: General Member opening reception (by invitation only).

Thursday %26ndash; Saturday, November 10 %26ndash; 12: Member-only preview days. (Contact DMA membership to join.)

Sunday, November 13, 2011 %26ndash; Sunday, February 12, 2012: "The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk" on view at the DMA.

"The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk" is organized by the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts in collaboration with the Maison Jean Paul Gaultier. The exhibition in Dallas is presented by Cadillac. Additional support is provided by the DMA%26rsquo;s Junior Associates Circle with funds raised through An Affair of the Art 2011: Maison de la Mode: House of Fashion; NorthPark Center; and Forty Five Ten.%26nbsp;Air transportation in Dallas is provided by American Airlines. Promotional support provided by Catwalk by TIGI.

Dallas Museum of Art, 1717 North Harwood Street, Dallas, TX 75201, 214-922-1200; DallasMuseumofArt.org



Les Vierges [Virgins] collection, %26ldquo;Apparitions%26rdquo; dress, haute couture spring/summer 2007. Photo %26copy; P. Stable/Jean Paul Gaultier.

Jean Paul Gaultier, 2009. Photo %26copy; Sofia Sanchez and Mauro Mongiello.

French Cancan collection, Women%26rsquo;s pr%26ecirc;t-%26agrave;-porter fall/winter 1991%26ndash;1992; photo %26copy; P. Stable/Jean Paul Gaultier.

Barb%26egrave;s collection, Women%26rsquo;s pr%26ecirc;t-%26agrave;-porter fall/winter 1984%26ndash;1985. Photo %26copy; P. Stable/Jean Paul Gaultier.

Les Hussardes [Hussars] collection, %26ldquo;Incognito%26rdquo; ensemble, haute couture fall/winter 2002%26ndash;2003. Photo %26copy; P. Stable/Jean Paul Gaultier.

Hommage %26agrave; l%26rsquo;Afrique [Tribute to Africa] collection, %26ldquo;La Mari%26eacute;e%26rdquo; dress, haute couture spring/summer 2005. Photo %26copy; P. Stable/Jean Paul Gaultier.

Les Indes galantes [Romantic India] collection, %26ldquo;Lascar%26rdquo; dress, haute couture spring/summer 2000. Photo %26copy; P. Stable/Jean Paul Gaultier.

Les Cages [Cages] collection, %26ldquo;Calligraphie%26rdquo; dress, haute couture, fall/winter 2008-2009. Photo %26copy; P. Stable/Jean Paul Gaultier.

L%26rsquo;Homme-objet [Boy Toy] collection, Men%26rsquo;s pr%26ecirc;t-%26agrave;-porter spring/summer 1984. Photo %26copy; P. Stable/Jean Paul Gaultier.

Les Actrices [Movie Stars] collection, %26ldquo;%26Eacute;toiles et toiles%26rdquo; dress, haute couture fall/winter 2009-2010. Photo %26copy; P. Stable/Jean Paul Gaultier.

Gaultier limited-edition tee at the DMA Museum Store.


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