In Dijon, where mustard rules, you can also meet an ancient goddess

Say “Dijon,” and it is likely that the word mustard will spring to mind. You can enjoy free tastings and buy just about any flavor of mustard (from cassis to horseradish) in the pedestrian medieval center of this sleepy city in Burgundy wine country. But few know that most of the mustard seed now used in making Dijon mustard comes from Canada (the seed that grows here is mostly used to produce Moutarde de Bourgogne — mustard of Burgundy). What you will find in Dijon is a little-visited archaeological museum with rare treasures from the Celtic and Gallo-Roman world. The Musée Archéologique is housed in the main wing of what was once the St.-Bénigne Benedictine abbey, set in a garden next door to the St.-Bénigne Cathedral, the tallest building in the city. The museum is worth a visit just to see the grand stone hall with two rows of columns and high Gothic arches that once served as the abbey’s dormitory. The museum itself, which I encountered as I

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